Derby shoes – Herring Shoes Journal

Benefits of Derby shoes and boots

10 April 2024

To work out if you would benefit from Derby footwear or not, we need to remind you of what they are. Shoe manufacturers and retailers often compare them to Oxfords to distinguish the difference.

While not considered as elegant as its Oxford counterpart, the Derby, also known as a Gibson or Blucher, is still steeped in history, favoured by the Earl of Derby back in the day and as a popular hunting and sporting shoe in the mid-19^th century.

But why? It’s all about the quarters and the vamp. The quarters are sewn on top of the vamp with the eyelets then sewn on top of the quarters to achieve the Derby’s open lacing system.

Here is where the benefits lie. The construction of the Derby shoe means there is a slight gap even when the shoes are laced up to allow for wider feet. They are also more accommodating of higher insteps or orthotics. They offer more comfort, especially if your feet tend to swell.

But that does not mean they are clumpy and ugly or even less formal. It’s all about choosing the right type of Derby shoe or boot. Let’s take a look.

Formal Derby shoes and boots
In my opinion, the Carroll is the most elegant of our formal Derby shoes. It is unfussy with an elongated toe with the quarters, sporting just three eyelets, a real feature of the shoe. The Godwine has a split French toe with a hand-stitched butted apron and five eyelets. It’s a fine-looking shoe! If you prefer a tan shade, our Westport grain calf shoe will look good with navy or grey trousers.

If you prefer an elegant boot, then your wider feet do not have to miss out either. The Mawdsley in a rosewood calk is, frankly, stunning. Very sleek with a leather sole and a lacing system that incorporates both eyelets and hooks. I am a fan of the Brienz too. This has a rubber sole plus another hand-stitched butted apron made from a beautiful burgundy polished leather.

Casual Derby shoes and boots
Hopefully, I have convinced you that the Derby style has a place in a formal environment, but its roots were firmly embedded in countryside pursuits, hence why there are plenty of Derby brogues. While the leather-soled versions can still be elegant, the rubber soles make for a chunkier style. See the Chippenham in cedar calf for a man-about-town vibe or the Kirkoswold for a country squire look.

For boots, we have added tweed to brogue detail to create our favourite Exmoor style that has been a best-seller for years while the Corsham and Ambleside are more classic brogues.

New Derby shoes and boots

We are always looking to reinvent traditional styles and we have most recently worked with the Northamptonshire-based craftsmen and women at Tricker’s to produce new limited edition Derby styles.

The Bernwood boot has been made from a fantastic waterproof suede, known as hydro nubuck, in whisky and dark brown. Tricker’s have also applied a lightweight Vibram sole to maintain the chunky look without being so heavy. This is an excellent weekender.

The Daniel is the shoe version, also made by Tricker’s. I think these would work well in a more casual office environment with chinos or jeans. These are limited edition too, so they are a little bit special.

While Derby footwear will undoubtedly be more comfortable for some, they look good too. You just need to choose the right style. Have a browse here.

Herring Shoes

What makes a Derby men’s shoe?

17 February 2022

To follow up our blog on Oxfords, we are now turning our attention to its chunkier contemporary, the Derby shoe, also known as the Blucher in the US or the Gibson on this side of the pond.

We love a bit of background when it comes to classic shoes, but footwear history can be a little blurry. Some of the earliest references date back to the Earl of Derby of the 12th century while others report the 14^th century Earl of Derby was their namesake when he needed larger shoes for his unusually large feet. I prefer the latter story!

The Derby may have also been intended as military footwear during the Napoleonic wars, but where it really came into its own was as a popular hunting and sporting shoe during the mid-19th century. In 1872, the Saint Crispin’s Magazine described the Derby as “a new tie shoe better than the Oxonian as the seam is not near the tender part of the foot.”

And this is where we come to the nitty gritty around the construction of the Derby. Saint Crispin was the patron saint of cobblers and the magazine that bears his name refers to the way the quarters and vamp allow the shoe to expand as the foot swells, making it more comfortable for people with larger feet. See…the 14^th century Earl story looks like a good bet now!

It would also explain why the Derby was suitable for military footwear. Soldiers’ feet swell in the heat of the day as they march, so this shoe style could expand to maintain comfort.

The defining feature of a Derby shoe is its open lacing system. It’s not just a case of where the eyelets are stitched. To achieve the Derby’s open lacing system and expansion ability, the quarters are sewn on top of the vamp with the eyelets sewn on top of the quarters.

This means there is a slight gap even when the shoes are laced up, which is why the lacing on the Derby is considered ‘open’ lacing and why it is different to the Oxford shoe. The quarters on an Oxford shoe sit underneath the vamp to create a closed style that makes for a tighter tie and no gap.

So now you know what defines a Derby. What different styles can we offer to you?

The trail-blazing, large-footed Earl paved the way for footwear for men with wider feet. While the open lacing defines the Derby as a more casual shoe in comparison to its super-sleek and formal Oxford counterpart, we have plenty of smart styles available that would have suited an earl.

The Boothroyd, Burlington, Carroll, Epping and Golding are all office or event-ready shoes. Some come with rubber soles for further bounce while there are leather-soled versions available too. I like the Golding for its gorgeous finish. I guess I prefer a plain finish rather than the toe-cap versions.

There are brogue-style office shoes too with the Burlington II, Longford, Leconfield and the new Fawcett brogue in tobacco calf with a chiselled toe. For a bit of flair, we can offer a crocodile effect leather Santano Derby. These could take you into the evening…even if your feet have swelled during the day.

We can also have split-toe Derby shoes with a raised apron detail running around the toe. Again, a smart shoe with a little extra detail. See the Pershore and Tiverton examples.

With the smart shoes ticked off, we can look at a few country casuals where the Derby brogue is king, either blended with tweed as seen on our Dartmoor or all-leather in the case of the Burford and the Kirkoswold styles. The Chippenham though almost has a bovver boy edge with its chunky rubber sole and standout cedar calf upper.

Herring Wasdale (now made in Burgundy grain)

If you are not a brogue fan, may I suggest the Wasdale or Wasdale II. These are ‘man shoes’ with a Veldtschoen construction that makes them highly water-resistant.

For a relaxed, weekend vibe, I like the Polegate, which has the split toe and apron detailing but is made from suede. Spring is on it way, so we can officially start talking about suede now! Similarly, the Cobra is a low-top crepe rubber shoe for chic slouching days.

We also have plenty of Derby style boots available but as this was all about Derby shoes, I am staying faithful to the shoes!

If your Oxfords pinch, you have slightly wider feet or have a propensity for swelling as you are on your feet all day, the Derby could be for you. Our customer service team are on hand to answer any queries you may have about the shoes we sell, so contact them if you are unsure what style would suit you best or would give you the most comfort.

Herring Shoes

Keep your feet dry with waxed leather

14 February 2020

Leather is a superb naturally, breathable material for keeping your feet comfortable, but is it durable enough to withstand wet weather?

With most leathers, you have to add treatments like our amazing nano-spray to stop water getting in. You can also waterproof standard leathers using dubbin, but note this can sometimes change the colour and finish of your shoes, so you do so at your own discretion.

But there is a traditional alternative.

We make some of our shoes using leathers where oils and waxes are rubbed into the hides by hand to create a water-repellent barrier. Some have leather soles for less rugged, day-to-day wear. See our Northamptonshire-made Orkney chukka boots or the Coburn or Coltham II Chelsea boots.

Herring Felcourt rubber-soled double monk shoes

However, if you want tough durability rubber soles are the way to go. There are Chelsea boots, monk and Derby shoes available, but I am keen on the more military styles.

Stand by for the Cairngorm. This is a stout boot with eight eyelets and a buckle for maximum security on the foot. This leather is waxy, of course, but has a suede texture that will mark and age wonderfully.

I am also keen on the Badminton. It’s the ultimate gentleman’s boot and again it will look better as it ages. It is a design and craft classic that will serve you well. The country last shape gives a roomy fit in the rounded toe box which combined with a gibson front allows the option for a thicker sock to be worn.

Lastly, and a little more edgy, is the Sharnbrook. This is a classic six-eyelet boot made with supple leather on the light and flexible Solovair air-cushioned sole making them incredibly comfortable for all day wear.

If you are not a fan of the Wellington boot, any of the three boots above will work as a comfortable alternative in wet conditions.

So please remember not all leathers are not the same when you choose your footwear for wet weather. Please do not hesitate to contact our customer services team if you need further advice.

Herring Shoes

Get the 007 look with chukkas and Derbys

3 February 2020

With the much-anticipated new James Bond film, No Time To Die, about to reach our silver screens, sales of shoes worn by the MI6 agent are likely to soar. James Bond is an interesting character to emulate, as one minute he will be base jumping to catch a villain before heading into the office in a sharp suit and then changing into black tie to schmooze with his latest love interest. This means there are plenty of shoe changes for the wardrobe department to manage. Let’s break it down.

Action scenes:

Daniel Craig’s version of the most famous 00 agent is a fan of the chukka boot. You can spot these in the No Time To Die trailer, as he hits the accelerator to spin his long-suffering Aston Martin to shoot at the pursuers circling him. The wardrobe department opted for a brown moccasin-toe version of the chukka for No Time To Die. You can get a slightly more contemporary look with a square, chiselled toe in our Heath style. For something a little more rough and ready, we can offer you the Canterbury in three colours if brown is not your thing. This style also has a rubber sole. James Bond loves a rubber sole. The man needs the grip!

At HQ and eveningwear:

Bond favours a super-sleek Derby when his feet are more firmly on the ground. Again, he prefers a rubber sole in case he is called into action. A Derby, also known as a Blucher or Gibson, is defined by the way the lacing and eyelets close the shoe. The closing panels are sewn on top of the vamp giving the shoe a more solid appearance and more room for the higher instep than a classic Oxford.

The Derby is often confused with the Oxford, as some versions can look similar atfirst glance. However, where the Oxford is considered formal, the Derby is a more versatile choice of footwear that can be dressed up and down. Perfect for the shaken-not-stirred lifestyle of our action hero.

Herring stocks some truly rugged Derby shoes but we feel James Bond would be happier in our Carroll style – but only when running and jumping is not required as these have leather soles. The Epping has a half-leather half-rubber sole while the Franco is all rubber. Naturally, they all come in black!

For the evening, Barker has polished or high-shine Derbys – see the Newbury and the Rutherford – while Loake offer Neo. In keeping with the essential Britishness of Bond, all three are made in the UK.

While I am excited for the new film, there was some decent footwear in the films and Bonds of yesteryear. The double monk boot, for instance, featured in Skyfall. Pierce Brosnan’s Bond was a fan of the brogue while Roger Moore wore penny loafers in his three 1980s films. Ian Fleming did specify what his leading man wore in his books. In Moonraker, he described Bond’s footwear as “well-polished black moccasin shoes” AKA the loafer. They were a key look for all the early Bonds be they tasselled, horse-bit or Venetian. Timothy Dalton even treated us to slip-on dress shoes in The Living Daylights.

The first Bond, and for many the main man, Sean Connery sported many different styles from espadrilles to a two-tone dress shoe that resembled a bowling shoe in You Only Live Twice. Frankly, he could have worn a feathered mule and pulled it off!

For more recent times though, Daniel Craig’s Bond is all about the chukka boot teamed with chinos and a short-sleeved linen or cotton shirt, and the Derby worn with a well-cut suit. Compare Connery to Craig and the clothes have not changed so much – both Bonds wore their clothes with ease – but the shoes have moved on.

Browsing Tag: Derby shoes

Benefits of Derby shoes and boots

What makes a Derby men’s shoe?

Keep your feet dry with waxed leather

Get the 007 look with chukkas and Derbys