Without getting political, while the UK has left the EU, we are still Europeans! We still want to serve our European footwear fans as well as we did before, but you may feel like ordering from a British company is now going to be an arduous or expensive process? So we want to allay a few of the common fears with a short Q&A.
Why should I trust Herring Shoes to deliver my footwear? We are experienced shippers with a 100% success rate. If your shoes or boots do not arrive for some reason due to being lost, we will get another pair out to you straight away.
How long will I have to wait for my footwear to arrive? We offer fast shipments with next day delivery to most of the EU, so you will not have to wait long at all!
I am worried that my shoes will get stuck in customs Don’t worry, we are experts at shipping shoes into the EU and we haven’t lost a pair yet. We guarantee you will get your shoes. As mentioned before, if there is a problem, we will sort it out.
Isn’t it more expensive, lots of fees to pay? The big question!We calculate all your duties and taxes in our checkout, so if you choose to pay them through us, there will be nothing extra to pay – guaranteed. Overall the cost of most products is very similar, even with the duties and taxes as they were before Brexit.
What about VAT? This may work out well for you as depending on your VAT rate some of our products will be cheaper than before! We deduct 20% UK VAT before adding your own country’s VAT in the calculation of the import fees. If your local VAT rate is under 20% you will be paying less VAT than before.
What about returns? We use prepaid return labels make returns or exchanges as simple as possible. If you do return your footwear, we will refund your duty and absorb that cost until there is a way to reclaim it on your behalf. This means you can order from us risk-free.
We are a Europhile company with some of our products manufactured by footwear experts in Portugal, Italy and Spain so we are always happy to help answer any questions or resolve issues from our friends on the Continent. We want you to carry on enjoying the quality shoes and boots we have to offer and our top-class customer service without any worries.
Does everything feel back to normal for you yet? I know that a lot of us are asking that very question as we start living a hybrid Covid/No Covid existence. In many places in the UK and indeed around the world, Covid is still causing huge disruption, but there are also areas that are getting back to normal. With that in mind, I wanted to share a little insight into what is happening at Herring as we come back from a state of enforced quiet to full speed ahead.
Firstly, thank you to all our customers for keeping us going over the pandemic period so far. We have had huge support from our loyal base and that has kept our heads above water, enabling us to maintain our high standards of customer care and not have to make anyone redundant. As a family-based business, we really do care about everyone who works here and getting through the worst times with everyone well and in work is really important – and largely thanks to you, our customers.
I should also address the elephant in the room…Brexit. I know you will have heard very different things about the impact of the changes but, regardless of the politics, we have been able to continue selling to our European friends uninterrupted. There are extra costs for us as a business, but we have largely contained any increases for our customers by working hard with DHL to make sure all taxes and duties are collected up-front and dealt with seamlessly. So, if you are in the EU and have hesitated to order, please do be reassured that it is business as usual.
On a related theme, you will have heard a lot about stock shortages recently. I am happy to report that the Herring brand is well stocked, so we will be able to send you some amazing shoes whenever you need them. This is because we were able to keep ordering throughout lockdown to support the factories that we work with in the UK, EU and further afield. However, there are some shortages from other brands that we stock. There have been manufacturing issues and those have been exacerbated by supply and delivery issues, so some styles will sell out this autumn. We are doing all we can to get shoes through, but in some cases, we are not expecting delivery until 2022! If in doubt, buy Herring, as it is always on the shelf.
So, to answer the question I asked at the beginning, does it feel like everything is back to normal for us? Well, not yet, but there are some very encouraging signs that we are on a strong path to recovery. For example, our best-selling shoes every year are classic toe-cap Oxfords such as the Knightsbridge and Mayfair, but they disappeared from our sales charts when offices closed. Since late October, we have seen a strong resurgence in demand which suggests that more of us are getting back to work in more formal environments.
On top of that, we are also seeing far more sales and enquiries around weddings. Our new wedding planning package has proved very popular, and we are enjoying a definite boost in sales around some of our formal themed shoes that have a bit of a twist.
There are clear signs that more and more of us are resuming our previous habits and planning for a more predictable and traditional future. That must be good news for all of us as we look to get back to where we were but also as we learn to adapt to some of the changes that have created our new version of normal. As a company that is rooted deeply in the past, we have been tested to embrace new challenges in the past year and a half. So far, we have been successful, and I look forward to moving towards that new normal with all of you.
I hope this little bit of real-life context around the way we are all coming out of the pandemic at Herring is useful. If you have any feedback for us, including suggestions for improvements, then we are always happy to hear from you.
Shoe fans across the globe will be gasping with horror at the thought of anyone not knowing what an Oxford is, but the fact is not everyone does know, and it matters when it comes to choosing the right shoe for you or the occasion.
Let’s have a little history first. It will not surprise you to learn that Oxfords originated at Oxford University. Students gradually cut down their boots to leave themselves with a shoe. There is an alternative school of thought that the Oxfords originated from the royal family. While Queen Victoria was gadding about in Chelsea boots, Prince Albert was padding around Balmoral Castle in a laced, light-weight shoe alternative to hunting boots. As a result, Balmoral is an alternative name for the Oxford, especially in the US. The key to Oxfords is the lacing. Laces replaced buttons in the Victoria era and although they were met with a little bit of suspicion at first for being too feminine, laced shoes are the norm these days.
But it’s not just about the laces, otherwise all laced shoes would be Oxfords; the eyelets (the holes the laces go through in loose terms) are just as important. An Oxford’s eyelets go through the vamp. Vamp is just the traditional name for the part of the shoe that goes over the top of the foot. So, translating from geek-speak to English, an Oxford has holes for laces that go straight through the top of the shoe. This creates a classic and elegant look as there is minimal extra silhouette created from the side. With the facings (the area the eyelets are set) flat to the top of the shoe, it looks like they are a continuation of the vamp, so they look seamless and sleek, which makes them very popular as a formal shoe to wear with suits for work or at weddings, funerals, and other social gatherings. Don’t think Oxford lacing only applies to shoes though, some of the most stylish boots are Oxford laced. The slim silhouette makes a tall boot look elegant even in a formal setting.
In summary, if a shoe has a simple ‘v’ shaped slit in the top of the shoe, with holes for laces either side that pull together, then you can call it an Oxford. Importantly it can be many styles such as wholecut, semi-brogue or brogue and still be an Oxford. It has nothing to do with the toecap, as is often assumed and the source of more than a little frustration at Herring Towers when incorrectly used in a famous line from the Kingsman movie. When the line, “Oxfords not brogues” is uttered it makes me cringe as they are not opposites. The quote should be “Oxford toe-cap not brogues”, to make shoe-sense, as there are many Oxford brogues! End rant… If you have managed to make sense of that then I hope you are looking forward to the next instalment on the Derby or Gibson shoe when the facings are stitched on top of the vamps.
If you are on our mailing list, you may have heard about our
new club, the Cordwainer
Club. Our new members-only offering gives shoe fans a little bit extra
when they order their footwear from us.
Named after a master shoemaker, you will be a customer who
likes to order a few pairs of shoes or boots a year…because you love shoes!
This highest level of club membership offers free shipping
and returns on all your orders – no matter where you live in the world
(excluding taxes, duties etc) – and free items with your Herring brand
purchases, such as shoe bags, polish, cleaning cloths, etc.
You will also benefit from exclusive offers, advance notice
of sale events and a named account manager who will learn your preferences and
be able to advise you based on experience.
All this for just £50 a year.
If you love your shoes, but only purchase from us once a
year, then we recommend you take advantage of our Cobbler status. This
does not cost anything. All you have to do is join our mailing list.
If you have not already done so, please see the sign-up box
at the bottom of our home page.
In return, we will give you premium courier shipping as standard and the nice
free stuff, advance notice of sales and email-only promotions.
Lastly, we have the Apprentice status for people who
just do not want to be on our mailing list. Sad times for us, but we
understand. You will still have the option to add a low-cost subsidised return
label when you go through the checkout, but we will no longer be including free
in box items such as shoe bags, creams and so on.
We hope this all makes sense and that you may be tempted to
join our club. We always work hard to maintain excellent service, no matter the
status of our customers, but we wanted to formalise our relationship with our
regulars to provide the very best in terms of care and attention.
Brexit has officially taken place but what does that mean for our valued European customers? Whereas some businesses on both sides may be shutting up shop to customers in the UK and on the continent, we – well, mainly our web guru Gareth – have been working hard to make sure there are no barriers to your shopping experience. In fact, our European customers stand to benefit from the UK’s EU exit as the VAT you pay will generally be less than the 20% customers pay here.
The process should be simple.
Simply select your goods of choice. The price advertised will not include the VAT. This will be added when you get to the checkout stage and will represent what tax you would normally pay in your country. Your order will be shipped with all fees paid too, so there is little or no impact on ordering from us if you are in the EU. It is business as usual.
Some of our best customers are European, so it stands to reason that we want to take care of you. We have tried to make it at easy as possible using intricate web code and multiple tax rates across Europe.
We continue to operate as usual for customers who live outside the EU too.
It has been a tumultuous year and there are still some tough months ahead but, as the Managing Director of Herring, I wanted to share information about some of the issues we have worked hard on this year.
Firstly, I am glad to say we have avoided making anyone redundant and we look strong for the coming year despite the huge hit that our sector of formal and luxury wear has taken. We have consistently offered a top-rated service despite all the challenges which is a huge achievement from all of our staff.
Secondly, I am proud to say that we have not forced discounts on any of our suppliers or cancelled any orders – we see ourselves as part of an ecosystem so we have tried to support everyone around us in the chain.
Thirdly, we have sent every parcel with carbon-offset since February and we now use a recyclable paper tape to seal our recycled cardboard boxes so that has lightened our environmental impact even further.
We have paid for more than 19,000 DHL shipments to be carbon offset, despite the harsh challenges this year, pressure on margins and so on, because we believe it is a really important part of what we do.
We will be sending a cheque to The Woodland Trust in January to offset the carbon from our 1,500 Royal Mail deliveries and we will continue to offset all our delivery carbon, whatever other challenges we face, in 2021.
Finally, we gave discounts to healthcare workers all around the globe of more than £60,000 during the height of the pandemic. Following on from that, we are now members of the UK Blue Light card scheme so a discount is now always available to those that work so hard to keep us safe.
I hope this makes it clear that Herring is more than just a shoe seller. We are run on principles that have lasted us for nearly 55 years but we are always looking to adapt and improve, as the world changes around us, in an ethical way.
How long have you worked at Herring Shoes? I started the website for Adrian (Herring) in about 2000 as a web developer but I joined the business full-time in 2010. Since 2018 I have been the MD.
Favourite style of shoe and why? You can’t have just one favourite because times change and so do your tastes. My first favourite in the 1990s was a burgundy beef-roll loafer which I thought was the coolest thing for a 20-something to wear; although I also had the burgundy Dr Martens Chelsea boot too, so maybe I had some style?
Now, I favour the military and utilitarian styling of the Badminton, for example. I just love everything about it, from the way the leather develops over time to the bright eyelets that give it personality, while being strictly functional as a pared back boot.
Favourite style of boot and why? My most loved pair (just ahead of the Badminton) is the Exmoor boot. Adrian and I visited the Fox brothers mill in Somerset to design the tweed and then we custom designed a boot with Cheaney that would show it off.
In a way, it is the opposite of a utilitarian style with the flamboyance of a rich tweed that you can make a suit from (I have and so have some of our customers!) It is unique as a style, so I feel special when I wear them and even more so as I appreciate the thought and effort that has gone into creating them.
What is your shoe philosophy/what do you love about shoes? John Wildsmith, the founder of the Wildsmith brand, said it best: “You are either in your shoes or in your bed, so it pays to invest in both.” This is so true but is not often said. With our shoes, we create a product that is either completely or mostly natural and sustainable, lasts well, doesn’t go out of fashion, is repairable many times and supports traditional craftsmen and women at the same time. What bothers me is the short-lived lifecycle of so many mass-produced trainer styles. We need to invest in heritage, well-made shoes, whatever the style.
What shoe/boot trend do you envisage for 2021? Our shoes are not fashion conscious in the normal way other brands are. We create classics that are updated to reflect current styles, but they are still overtly traditional. In 2021, we will launch an exciting collaboration with an iconic trainer brand so that we can offer authentic casuals as more of us move away from the formal requirements of an office. I am sure though that the classics will endure. Men like to show off and an expertly crafted shoe always says a lot about the wearer. Maybe the formal styles will start to push back into some of the casual settings?
What has been the biggest change in the shoe industry that you have seen since you have worked for Herring Shoes? The big brands have started to take far more control of their products which is good because it discourages discounting of the product. It costs a lot to hand-make a shoe in England and a lot of factories have closed in the last 20 years because their margins were unsustainable.
To keep the tradition alive there needs to be a reasonable profit and they are, sensibly, protecting themselves. There is a trade-off though, we are not able to sell as freely as we were due to their distribution models. This is why having the Herring brand, made to the same standards and fairly priced, wherever you happen to live in the world, gives us opportunities to grow.
Who would you like to see wearing Herring Shoes and why? There are a few that would probably make people wince as being too obvious or too celebrity-loving. Unfortunately 2020 put the brakes on any new profiles but we have a few ongoing projects which might well include a some well-known faces that make it onto the website. I can say with hand-on-heart that every ambassador I have had the privilege of meeting has been inspiring in different ways. Collectively they say a lot about what makes Herring as a brand tick, so whoever we meet next is who I want to see.
Top shoe care tip: Alternate your shoes. It is so important to share out the wear between more than one pair of shoes. If you could only do one thing, alternating would be it.
If you had to choose one pair of Herring Shoes to wear for the rest of your life, what would they be? Easy, the Herring Exmoor boot. It has great associations for me. I love its Britishness and it can be dressed up or down. Might look a bit odd on the beach with shorts though….
In the last few
months, we have been introducing our newsletter subscribers to our new Classic
Elite range. (If you are not a subscriber, you can sign up at the bottom of our
home page.)
This range is a
new sub-section of our Classic range. They feature Goodyear-welted soles and
fine European leathers, but they offer something new.
By working our
magic in design and specification, we have created shoes that have many of the
features of our highest quality Premier shoes but at the more attainable
pricing of our Classic shoes.
We have managed this by talking
direct to the factories and choosing the best lasts, leather and combination of
features to create something wonderful. The Haig double monk, for instance,
features Goodyear-welted soles that are closed-channel stitched and
hand-painted. We have also used a bespoke looking last that
is slightly more generous than you usually find on a high-end shoe, so that it
is comfortable from the first wear. We have a single monk version too in
the Holmes.
Meanwhile, the Christie is a wholecut Oxford which means
that the entire upper has to be made faultlessly from one piece of leather.
Think of icing a cake perfectly with an expensive icing sheet and you will
understand why these are the apex of shoe making! This model benefits from
another highly skilled feature…the closed-channel sole stitch. This gives a
more refined appearance to the sole and makes it almost indistinguishable from
a far more expensive shoe.
The Montgomery is an
austerity brogue style. The name is thought to originate in the 1940s when
leather supply was restricted so the wingtip patterns were simplified to allow
less leather to be used by omitting the brogue detail altogether.
Boots have not been left out of our
Classic Elite collection. The Purcell Chelsea boot comes in both leather
and suede, and is made on a classic last shape that will never be out of
fashion.
Meanwhile, for more relaxed days,
we have the Alanbrooke and Allenby loafers, with the latter featuring
delicate stitching on the vamp.
Aside from the attention to detail
and style, all these shoes share another important element in common…they can
be repaired. In line with our commitment to supporting slow fashion, these
shoes are all Goodyear welted, so they can be repaired over and over again.
So, while you a benefiting from more classic shoes with attainable prices, you are also investing in footwear that will last.
When the coronavirus crisis hit, none of us were sure how
long it would affect us…and we still don’t know. The only thing that was certain
was that the NHS would be put under enormous pressure. When I say NHS, I am not
just talking financially, but rather the human beings who will be taking the daily
strain.
As the Thursday night homage to NHS staff has shown, we are all grateful for what they are doing right now. But as a business, it makes you feel powerless. It was not until my sister-in-law said she was looking for a new pair of comfortable shoes as she was returning to work for the NHS that I thought we could at least make a gesture of some sort.
Sadly, I could not help my sister-in-law, as we do not stock
a vast array of women’s shows (yet) and many NHS staff will need to wear shoes
that can be easily cleaned, but we could at least offer them a discount on the
shoes they wear to work or for when they are away from work.
We quickly launched our 40% discount for NHS staff to show them our appreciation. It felt like it was the least we could do in very trying times. And as it become evident that NHS staff were not the only ones taking the strain, we opened out a 30% discount to healthcare workers, such as those working in care homes.
To date, these discounts have equated to more than £20,000,
so we are proudly aware that some of our shoes are being worn by our healthcare
heroes. In comparison to what NHS and other healthcare workers are doing, it is
small thing really, but we just wanted to do something.
Meanwhile, our customer services, IT and accounts teams are
safely working from home while our warehouse workers are respecting the
two-metre social distancing rules to ensure these shoes deliveries can be made
as quickly as possible.
Like you, I hope this is all over as quickly as possible. From
everyone at Herring Shoes, please stay safe.
As I reflect on my shoe collection, one thing becomes immediately apparent. I have a weakness for spectator or correspondent shoes and boots.
Spectator shoes became very popular in the 1920s and 1930s and I am so pleased that in the last 10 years there has been a resurgence.
I love them because the combination of contrasting colours and textures create so much personality and interest. And, depending on the combination of leathers, the style can be formal and elegant (such as, the Herring Moriarty Balmoral boot, that balanced the black calf and black suede combination of leathers like a maestro conducting a symphony) or flamboyant and edgy (such as the Herring Jekyll and Hyde that gave you the choice of black and white calf or mahogany and white calf). I have to confess that I have all the styles that I just mentioned.
No doubt, you need to be at ease and feel confident wearing spectator shoes but once you have, you will fall in love immediately. And, irrespective of whether the style is formal therefore more subtle or flamboyant, you will be noticed.
One of the best features on the Herring website is the New Styles section. It is a great way to quickly find out what new styles are available from all the brands on the Herring catalogue. I encourage you to do it often.
Having said that, you will not be surprised to learn that I was excited when I saw the new Henley spectator brogue featured in New Styles.
As I mentioned, I have a weakness for spectator brogues, but I reckon it is one of the best new styles available at the moment.
It is a spectator brogue in dark leaf calf with a contrasting canvas. It is exquisitely made and the dark leaf calf and canvas combination is perfectly balanced. The colours create a beautiful contrasting harmony and the texture of the canvas gives the shoe such class.
The last is long and elegant with a chisel toe. It does an exceptional job of simultaneously traversing the contemporary with the classic. Consequently, it will remain current indefinitely and, in my opinion, will become an iconic design and style.
With time, the canvas will develop its own individual character and patina that will make your Henley unique and, for all intensive purposes, a bespoke design.
The Henley is a great choice with so many different outfit choices. Clearly, it would be suitable and a dashing addition to a linen 3 piece suit in the summer or a more relaxed chino or jeans inspired ensemble. The Henley is such a versatile style.
It is still very warm in Melbourne so the Henley’s timing is perfect but I also plan to wear it in some of the cooler months that are looming. I reckon they would even be at home with a tweed ensemble and an option to consider with a brown chalk stripe flannel suit.
Of course, any outfit sporting the Henley will not be complete without the finishing touch of a fedora hat. A suitable hat is always a must.
I am sold on the Henley’s style. I hope you will be too.
The news and social media feeds are full of stories and warnings about
climate change. Carbon emissions, melting ice caps, deforestation and so on are
a reality and Herring has taken steps to ensure it remains a sustainable
business.
Ever since our business was established in 1966, Herring has created
high quality footwear that is designed to last. We design some of our footwear
with Goodyear welts, which means these shoes and boots can be repaired. These
are easily identified on our website thanks to our ‘Repair service’ logo. You
can enjoy the comfort of the leather upper that has moulded to your feet but easily
replace the sole. This ensures our shoes can be worn for many years.
This is important. We don’t believe in fast fashion; we believe in slow fashion based on quality. In the past 15 years, global clothing production has doubled to meet demand for quick turnaround garments. Garments are often only worthy of a single social media post before they are thrown away or forgotten. More than half of fast fashion items are thrown away in less than a year.
We want our customers to get a good 10 years out of our shoes. We
certainly don’t them to be purchased for a single Instagram post!
Aside from quality, there is the
practicality of only dealing with factories that use respected European
tanneries that are regulated to minimise environmental impact. We have been
using 100% recycled cardboard for our shipping containers since 2016 and we use
recyclable plastic and only where necessary or where it is the best choice. We also
have a large photovoltaic array on our warehouse roof that harvests our lovely
Devon sunshine and offsets 100% of our electricity usage.
At the start of this month, we began offsetting the carbon impact of all our shipments. To help us fund this, there is an optional customer contribution at the checkout to help us pay the fees.
Most of our shipments go through DHL and they have a cost per kilo
surcharge that they then pay towards green energy, carbon offsetting and other
projects. Where other couriers are not able to offer a carbon offset scheme, Herring
will instead pledge to pay The Woodland Trust a donation based on the same
calculation for all non-DHL shipments.
We estimate our voluntary carbon off-setting levy will be 45 pence at this stage. However, we will adjust this up or down to match the carbon usage as closely as possible. We will publish how much has been contributed by customers and by us when the scheme has been running for a while. Herring is introducing this carbon offset plan this because we believe it is the right thing to do. Some customers will choose not to pay the levy, so this will be a net cost to Herring but one that we think is well worth paying. For those of you that do choose to pay the levy, we hope you will enjoy ma king a difference with us.
Leather is a superb naturally, breathable material for
keeping your feet comfortable, but is it durable enough to withstand wet
weather?
With most leathers, you have to add treatments like our
amazing nano-spray
to stop water getting in. You can also waterproof standard leathers using dubbin,
but note this can sometimes change the colour and finish of your shoes, so you
do so at your own discretion.
But there is a traditional alternative.
We make some of our shoes using leathers where oils and waxes are rubbed into the hides by hand to create a water-repellent barrier. Some have leather soles for less rugged, day-to-day wear. See our Northamptonshire-made Orkney chukka boots or the Coburn or Coltham II Chelsea boots.
However, if you want tough durability rubber soles are the
way to go. There are Chelsea boots, monk and Derby shoes available, but I am
keen on the more military styles.
Stand by for the Cairngorm.
This is a stout boot with eight eyelets and a buckle for maximum security on
the foot. This leather is waxy, of course, but has a suede texture that will
mark and age wonderfully.
I am also keen on the Badminton.
It’s the ultimate gentleman’s boot and again it will look better as it ages. It
is a design and craft classic that will serve you well. The country last shape
gives a roomy fit in the rounded toe box which combined with a gibson front
allows the option for a thicker sock to be worn.
Lastly, and a little more edgy, is the Sharnbrook.
This is a classic six-eyelet boot made with supple leather on the light and
flexible Solovair air-cushioned sole making them incredibly comfortable for all
day wear.
If you are not a fan of the Wellington boot, any of the
three boots above will work as a comfortable alternative in wet conditions.
So please remember not all leathers are not the same when
you choose your footwear for wet weather. Please do not hesitate to contact our
customer services team if you need further advice.
There are few shoes in our range that are classier and more classic than a Knightsbridge.
However, even an old favourite needs an upgrade from time to time. A black Oxford, the Knightsbridge is our longest selling shoe to date. It is a classic toecap and is made using the finest calf leathers on the 026 last. This last is very much a classic English last shape, with a rounded toe of standard length. The sole is Goodyear welted leather and the heel is largely leather too with a rubber tip. In short, this is a quality British shoe that should last its wearer for years and years. Because it is welted, it can be sent back to the factory to be resoled, which means you do not have to wear in a new pair of shoes when the soles wear down. But it is time for refresh. Do not worry, the Knightsbridge will retain its classic style and will still be made by expert British craftsmen and women, but we have added some embellishments.
The full lining is going to change and there will be a cut-out window for the sizing information. The sole has the addition of gold-leaf branding. Small changes for small upgrade. Wearers will not notice this difference in style or fit. The other upside to an upgrade is that we are offering a 20% discount on our existing stock of Knightsbridge shoes. If you are looking for classic black Oxford that will stand the test of time, then this is a great opportunity.
With so-called fast fashion contributing more to climate change than air and sea travel, Herring Shoes is proud to have been a dedicated supporter of ‘slow fashion’ since our inception in 1966.
Not only do our shoes and boots encapsulate timeless classic styles that rarely go out of fashion, they are made to last.
In the past 15 years, global clothing production has doubled to meet demand for quick turnaround garments. The quick turnaround does not refer to the time they take to make, but rather the time they are worn.
In some cases, a garment is only worthy of single social media post before they are thrown away or forgotten. This has left a trail of predominantly low-cost cast-offs, with more than half of fast fashion items thrown away in less than a year, according to the consultants McKinsey*.
The environmental impact from the microfibres in discarded clothing is significant. Make Fashion Circular revealed greenhouse gas emissions from textiles production totalled 1.2 billion tonnes of CO2 equivalent globally in 2015 ** .
With major clothing and footwear companies currently under scrutiny from an all-party environmental audit committee and a report pending, this is an issue that will hit the headlines again in the coming weeks.
Our loyal customers know that Herring Shoes does not sell clothing or footwear for a few pounds. Our dedication to quality means the urge to simply discard one of our items should be reduced. More than that though, we produce shoes and boots that are designed to last for many years.
Longevity has always been a part of our philosophy. An investment in a pair of Herring Shoes will pay you back with years on your feet wearing comfortable and stylish footwear.
Moreover, our shoes can be repaired, as discussed in our recent blog repair to extend the life of your shoes. This means they can be returned to the original factories they were manufactured in to be professionally restored by highly skilled craftsmen.
Unlike other manufacturers, we want you to hang onto your Herring Shoes. We want you to love them and feel the joy of shoes that have moulded to your feet over time. There is nothing fast about the relationship we want you to have with our shoes. Long may it continue.
A seemingly unimportant question, but a welt is a big deal in the world of quality shoes and boots.
Our photos show where a welt can be found in many of the shoes and boots we stock. In layman’s terms, it is a leather strip that is sewn around the edge of a shoe-upper to which the sole is attached.
Hardly headline news, but the welt’s existence makes all the difference when ensuring a shoe has longevity and can be efficiently repaired.
To give you a little historical perspective…the welt process we know today was invented in 1869 by Charles Goodyear Jr. He was the son of Charles Goodyear, the inventor of the chemical process to create and manufacture pliable, waterproof, mouldable rubber. The two Charleses has tyres and footwear all sewn up!
What made the Goodyear welt stand out was that it was a machine-based alternative to very labour intensive hand-stitching. They are clever chaps those Goodyears!
This is how a welted shoe is made. The upper part of the shoe is shaped over the last and then the welt strip is sewn to the upper.
Then in a separate operation, the sole is stitched to the same welt strip which holds the material firmly together. The space created by the welt between the upper and the sole is usually filled with cork, which is malleable and comfortable underfoot. The finished result is a largely waterproof shoe. If you look closely at the photo below, you can see the pale stitch linking the welt to the insole of the upper and the dark stitch which links the welt to the sole.
It is true that welted shoes are more expensive to manufacture than other production methods, but they are relatively simple to repair which greatly enhances their value. The welt is the buffer between the upper and the sole meaning that the sole can be cut off and then a new one attached without damaging the upper.
All Goodyear welted Herring Shoes can be repaired by a competent cobbler. We offer an enhanced repair service on styles that have the logo below next to them, this logo means that they can be sent back to the original manufacturer to be re-soled while retaining the comfort of your worn-in upper. Factory repair is the gold standard.
Among our popular Goodyear welted shoes and boots are the Fencote two-tone brogues, the Blair II double monk shoes, the Soho Chelsea boots and many more. Simply type ‘Goodyear’ into the search facility or click this Goodyear welted styles link and it will take you to a full list so you can discover the wonders of welts!
In an increasingly environmentally-conscious world that is trying to move away from the throwaway society’s habits of recent times, having the ability to repair or restore is important.
As consumers, we have got into the habit of buying items at a lower price to simply replace them when they break or wear out. That has encouraged some manufactures to produce goods that only have a short lifespan and cannot be repaired.
Herring products take a different, long-term approach. Most of our shoes are made using Goodyear Welted construction which is expensive but gives a shoe the best long-term repairability. They are always repairable by cutting the old sole off, through the welt, and attaching new one by a competent cobbler. This process can be repeated three or more times giving many years of service.
The image below will show next to factory repairable shoes indicating that they can be resoled using the original lasts at the original factory, so they come back almost as good as new but with the benefit of the uppers being worn-in to your individual shoe shape. In some ways this is even better than a new pair! Imagine sending your car back for a new engine and transmission, for a fraction of the price of a new car – how long would you be able to keep it instead of buying a new one?
As long as you look after your shoes (see our helpful guide here), repairs can ensure your favourite pair of brogues, Chelsea boots and so on are good to wear for at least 10 years. What’s more, whenever they are repaired, they will still fit you the way they always have as you will not have to break them in again.
Whether you return them to us to send back to the manufacturer or use a high street cobbler, your shoes will repay your investment over many years and will undoubtedly work out more cost effective than replacing your shoes several items with cheaper versions.
Furthermore, you will serve to contribute to a global need to drive down waste and the carbon footprint of production.
If you have purchased a pair of shoes from Herring Shoes and you are uncertain as to whether they can be repaired or not, please get in contact with our customers services team on +44 (0)1548 854886 who will be able to advise you.
You don’t have to feel the pinch with wide-fitting shoes
In a perfect world, we would all have feet that fit a standard shoe and a standard width…but Herring is fully aware feet come in all shapes and sizes.
A standard shoe width in the UK is called an F fitting. This is determined by the lasts shoe manufacturers use to make their product. Previously made from hardwood or cast iron, lasts are now made from plastic and take the form of a foot. This allows manufacturers to mould the leather around the last to ensure the shoe grips the foot in the right way.
For most people, a standard F width is perfectly comfortable, but people with wider or flatter feet may feel the pinch. One of the many wonderful things about our lasted shoes is the flexibility we have to offer a slightly wider last so that we can accommodate these variations without noticeably changing the aesthetic of the shoe.
The standard UK designation for a wider fit is G. G fits are ever so slightly wider than an F fit. It does not represent a great difference in millimetres, but for the customer, it gives them a choice between a shoe that is just that little bit tight and a shoe that is actually very comfortable.
Herring understands this and we offer both medium/standard and wide fittings for our most popular styles, such asour Carnaby brogues and Mayfair Oxfords, so our customers can still have the shoe they want but will enjoy a little more wiggle room.
Wider fittings also give customers flexibility of choice. For instance, if your favourite shoe is not available in your usual medium fitting size, you could probably get away with a half size smaller in a wider fitting.
It is important to point out however that different countries have different measurements for shoe fittings. In the US, an F/standard/medium fitting for men’s shoes would be a D, and a G/wide would be an EE. With the letters being different, confusion should be minimal, but it is always best to check which size scheme your footwear outlet is using to avoid getting the wrong shoes!
Herring is proud to offer a decent range of wide fitting shoes. If you are unsure of what styles are available, please go to the Herring section of our website, filtered for G fits. We currently have 18 classic styles for you to choose from. You are also very welcome to call our customers services team on 01548 854886 who will be able to give you advice on the best shoe for you.