Herring Shoes Journal

The origins of a shoe or boot usually determine the difference between styles and this example is no exception. Let us consult the history books to work out the difference between a chukka boot and a desert boot, stating with the latter.

History of desert boots
Desert boots were brought to the UK by English shoe company C & J Clark, now known as Clarks. When Nathan Clark was deployed to Burma to fight for his country in 1941, he observed the soldiers stationed there were wearing durable, unlined, suede boots with a stitch-down construction on crepe soles, designed to cope with the harsh desert conditions. Mr Clark purchased a pair from a local bazaar and brought them home to be re-created in his Somerset factory.

The desert boot gained a global following after making their debut at the Chicago Shoe Fair in 1950, becoming popular with poets, musicians and actors, and have remained a casual mainstay ever since.

History of chukka boots
This time a product of British Army units stationed in India, the chukka was originally designed for polo players to provide ankle support and comfort in the stirrups. These boots are more structured and tend to have a full leather lining. While they can have a thinner sole, they can also sport a rubber or Commando version, usually attached using a Goodyear welt construction.

Do you choose a desert boot or a chukka boot?
The lightweight, unstructured nature of the desert boot lends them to more casual outfits. These are great to pull on with your favourite pair of jeans or cargo pants. Add a T-shirt or a flannel shirt and you are good to go!

The structured chukka, though, has a broader use with smarter styles available to take you from a day at work to a smart, casual event. A leather or slim-line rubber sole is just the ticket if you want to wear them with a suit or smart trousers while the Commando sole styles are a little more rugged.

Famous chukka boot wearers on the silver screen have included Daniel Craig’s James Bond and Steve McQueen’s Frank Bullitt, with David Beckham, Ryan Gosling, Bradley Cooper and Idris Elba also fans of this style.

New chukka boot styles
Our latest chukka boot – the Forge – is a modern interpretation of this classic style. We have used a premium rubber sole for comfort and a robust, go-anywhere aesthetic, along with the highest quality waxy leather uppers and full leather linings. The Forge is just that little bit edgy but is also very smart. The waxy leather makes the Forge perfect for the wet weather of autumn too.

Also, new for this autumn/winter season is the Gosforth II. This has a hybrid sole with the choice of a tan grain or cigar suede upper. While our recent collaboration with Tricker’s has produced the rather special Mike chukka, which has been lovingly made from gorgeous natural or navy Horween Chromexel leather on a thick Vibram rubber sole. This is a spectacular and excellent example of how the chukka boot is always evolving.