Herring Shoes Journal

Are handmade shoes worth it when there is so much choice on the mass-produced market? This is a subject close to our hearts as we only sell handmade shoes. For people on a budget, grabbing a pair of shoes or boots from the shelves in a high street store or out of town retail park will be financially attractive, but there is economic and ethical value in spending a little more to get the quality and the longevity.

First off, handmade shoes will look outstanding. Skilled craftsmen and women with years of experience undertake an average of 180 processes, including rigorous checks, before they even reach the shelves or websites where they are sold. You will be able to see the quality in the leather used, the exquisite design details, the delicate stitching, and the burnishing and polishing, but to really appreciate the craftsmanship, you need to try them on.

Your shoes will feel a little snug to begin with, and maybe a little uncomfortable, but this is perfect as the leather will stretch over time and mould to your foot shape. The leather used in handmade shoes is also of a higher quality then that used for mass produced footwear. The leather may be thicker and stiffer at first but will last you so much longer.

There is real art to leather production that precedes the shoe manufacture stage. Most of our shoes are made from calf, with sub-division leather types including, suede, patent and grain. Then there are the special leathers, such as cordovan crup and Chromexcel, both made from horsehide. We seek out the very best tanneries and factories, such as Horween in Chicago, to bring these leathers to our customers. Again, you will not get this from a mass producer.

Then there is the construction. Traditional British shoemakers, such as the ones found in the home of the world’s best footwear factories in Northamptonshire, use the Goodyear welting method. A leather strip or welt is sewn to the edge of a shoe-upper, and then the sole if attached to the welt. The space created by the welt, between the upper and the sole, is usually filled with cork, which is malleable and comfortable underfoot. The more you wear them, the more your shoes will mould to your feet…and they will feel wonderful!

While this creates a thicker sole that takes a little more time to break in, welted shoes are relatively simple to repair, as the sole can be cut off and then a new one attached without damaging the upper. This makes them a greener and more economical alternative in the long run. You cannot do this with shoes that have a glued-on sole; Cobblers will simply turn you away. Not as thick, are Blake-stitched soles as they are welt-free. These can still be repaired but not as many times as a welted shoe, as the upper is more likely to be damaged when the sole is removed.

So, let’s consider the elements that go into a pair of handmade shoes:

• Quality leathers
• Experience of artisan craftsmen and women
• Around 180 processes to produce every shoe
• Exceptional design
• Longevity and repairability

Compared to a plastic or cheap leather shoe with a glued-on sole that has been mass produced by a programmed machine with no thought for repairability, you can see where the value lies in a handmade shoe.